Randonnée dans le Djurdjura

Le club sportif amateur Mimouna de Haïzer a organisé, le 20 mars dernier, une randonnée qui traversa la montagne du Djurdjura au lieu-dit Tizi Guefis et Tizi Uguelmim. Cette association, qui active beaucoup dans les sports de montagne, a des projets en matière de balisage de circuits de randonnée dans le pParc national du Djurdjura. Elle entreprend de faciliter la marche aux promeneurs en mettant en évidence les divers chemins de montagne pour certains desquels il ne reste pas beaucoup de traces nettes.Car, il faut le souligner, il est plus facile, en randonnée, de suivre un chemin balisé même s’il est détourné et plus long plutôt que d’essayer d’aller tout droit en prenant des raccourcis. Cela est plus difficile et surtout très dangereux. Il est arrivé que des marcheurs aient des accidents ou perdent énormément de temps à cause de leur sortie des traditionnels chemins de promenade. Ainsi, le balisage du circuit de marche en haute montagne, «Tichewt n Haïzer (Dent du lion) /Ighil Guefran» et retour achevé, le club sportif amateur Mimouna projette de tracer deux autres chemins dans les différents circuits de promenade. Il envisage également d’imprimer des guides touristiques en produisant 1 000 cartes postales et 3 000 dépliants dans le but de promouvoir les circuits balisés et les divers sites touristiques de la région de la station climatique de Tikjda. Une Maison d’hôtes formée de plusieurs gîtes ruraux est également au programme de ce club sportif amateur. La maison en question, située tout près du rocher de Mimouna, appartient à un particulier qui l’a mise à la disposition de l’association. Les travaux de réhabilitation, qui sont évalués à quelque 344 millions de centimes, ont débuté en janvier 2010 et seront terminés en mai de la même année. Ces réalisations n’ont été possibles que grâce à un partenariat entre, d’un côté, l’italienne CISS (Constructione internationale sud-sud), l’AREA-ED (association de réflexion, d’échanges et d’actions pour l’environnement et le développement), et de l’autre, le parc national du djurdjura.

LE CIRCUIT DE LA RANDONNÉE
L’association a donné rendez-vous, ce samedi 20 mars à 8 heures, aux volontaires qui devaient réaliser le circuit de Tamda Uguelmim, devant son siège, dans l’enceinte de la piscine de la municipalité de Haïzer. Tôt le matin, le rassemblement des randonneurs a eu lieu à l’endroit convenu. Vers 8 h 30 minutes, les fourgons et les bus remplis de marcheurs s’ébranlent vers Tighilt Guefran, lieu du début du parcours, après avoir traversé les localités de Tighilt n’Seksou, Izemmouren et Tanagout. La route, jusque-là, en mauvais état, (Ah ! L’aménagement !), commence à devenir abrupte et sinueuse en certains endroits. Nous sommes au flanc de la montagne et le chauffeur allume son autoradio, Aït Menguellet nous berce de ses airs et poèmes : l’amour, la mort, l’espoir, la révolution… la route redevient aplatie et horizontale avant notre descente. Après les champs de figuiers, d’oliviers que nous laissons derrière nous, les chênes et les frênes (les cèdres sont plus loin, làhaut) se rapprochent de nous à la vitesse du véhicule qui nous transporte. Arrivés à Ighil Guefran, les fourgons et les minibus nous déposent. Nous devrions attendre les dernières personnes parties de Haïzer. Autour de nous, de gros rochers sont éparpillés çà et là sur les prés verdoyants. Nous entendons le ruissellement de plus en plus fort des eaux qui jaillissent avec force et coulent le long des ruisseaux qu’elles ont creusés ellesmêmes au fil du temps. Des citoyens nous déclarent être propriétaires des terrains de cette localité abandonnée et où quelques maisons de fortunes se dressent encore. En 1992, deux citoyens, Ahmed et Ali, ont été enlevés ici par un groupe terroriste et ont disparu depuis. Des poteaux électriques, sans fil, parcourent le paysage qu’ils défigurent. Les câbles ont été volés et les habitants ont déserté leurs villages. L’un d’entre eux nous montre une grotte appelée «Ifri Ikerkaren», du nom d’une des familles de la région, et qui servait de refuge aux moudjahidine. Au nord-ouest,Tichewt N Hizer, «la dent du lion», pointe son nez vers le ciel, au-dessus de nous, Tajgagalt et Taliwin, au nord-est une forêt de pins noirs et de cèdres. Le minibus final arrive et déverse le dernier groupe de promeneurs. À 9 heures 22 minutes, rassemblement de tout le monde au lieu de départ de la marche à Ighil Guefran. Après un briefing d’orientation fait par Slimane Touat, membre du bureau de l’Association organisatrice, la randonnée des 91 marcheurs, (on les avait comptés) commence avec en tête, Essaid pour montrer le chemin, au milieu Slimane et comme balai Abdenour. Le rôle de ce dernier est de fermer la marche et de chercher d’éventuels retardataires. Yahia Aouali et Slimane Mezioud, originaires de la région, nous servent de guides. Au fur et à mesure que nous avançons, les rochers deviennent de plus en plus petits jusqu’à devenir de la caillasse. L’effet de la «glaciation» a fait que les gros rochers, en éclatant à cause du grand froid puis de la chaleur, ont dégringolé jusqu’en bas alors que les moyens se sont arrêtés à michemin et les galets immobilisés sur place. Yves Renoux, notre ami français, est avec nous. Conseiller technique national, professeur. d’éducation physique et sportive, déclare : «Je suis dans les montagnes depuis l’âge de huit ans, tous les sports ont des limites et des mérites». Il est vrai que les sports de montagne, qui exigent beaucoup de courage, repoussent les limites de l’homme. La première halte se fait, environ un kilomètre plus loin, à Ighil Guefis. Nous atteignons ce col vers 10 heures 10 minutes. Mouloud, de l’ex-groupe artistique «Afsex», actuellement «accord d’âge» ou «accordage» (l’artiste aime bien jouer avec les mots), tire sa guitare et joue quelques morceaux de musique accompagné des amoureux de la nature. Après une courte halte, la procession reprend son chemin vers Tizi Uguelmim. Nous longeons le lieu-dit Ifulkan alors que nous apparaît, en bas à l’ouest du village Allouane, le rocher de Mimouna, du nom du CSA, le club sportif amateur. L’ascension se fait de plus en plus difficile et quelques jeunes randonneurs montrent des signes de fatigue. Ils sont encadrés et aidés par les animateurs de l’association Mimouna. L’un d’entre eux, comme pour chasser la fatigue, nous rappelle deux vers d’une chanson du grand poète Lounis Aït Menguellet «Tighilt i yekfan fell-agh ad d-tettban mazal tayed» (à chaque fois que nous dépassons une colline, une autre surgit devant nous). Sur notre chemin de montée, nous trouvons plusieurs petits troupeaux de bovins pâturant en haute montagne sans bergers. Ces bêtes sont lâchées là toute l’année en toute liberté. Leurs propriétaires viennent de temps à autre les vérifier, les compter et prendre quelques-une d’entre elles pour les vendre ou les immoler aux différentes occasions telles que l’Aïd ou les fêtes de mariage. La colonne des promeneurs avance tant bien que mal. On attend les retardataires et on reprend la marche. À douze heures, le cortège atteint le col d’Aguelmim, Tizi Uguelmim à 1 820 mètres d’altitude, l’altimètre en main. Un des promeneurs avait également un GPS dont était équipé son portable. Il confirme les calculs de l’appareil à quelques mètres près.

LE LAC AGUELMIM
À nos pieds, se trouve le lac dans toute sa splendeur. Une étendue d’eau d’environ trois hectares enfermée dans une dépression de pas moins de cinq hectares au milieu de la montagne, entourée de chaque côté par des pics de rochers hauts perchés, sortis du sol tels des pylônes gigantesques au milieu d’une plaine recouverte d’une pelouse naturelle. Un déversoir libère le trop-plein d’eau vers les falaises au nord du lac, puis vers la plaine d’Iwadiyen. Quelques névés ou plaques de neige sont disséminées un peu partout. Le sentier que nous empruntons est encore enneigé et glissant. Des promeneurs tombent, d’autres se laissent rouler dans la neige ou jouent à se bombarder avec des boules du tapis blanc. La plaine du lac est atteinte quelque dix minutes plus tard, par les premiers randonneurs arrivés. Nous avions fait deux heures trente minutes de route. Mais l’endroit n’est pas désert. Sur place, nous trouvons des jeunes d’Ath Maâllam et d’Ath Amar de la commune d’Ath Bouaddou, wilaya de Tizi Ouzou, qui disputaient entre eux un match de football. Ils nous affirment ne pas avoir organisé de campings, ni de rencontres sportives depuis bien longtemps. Quand nous avions voulu savoir la raison, l’un d’entre eux me tient par le bras et me dirige vers un panneau publicitaire du parc national du Djurdjura. Là, il me montre des impacts de balles. Même la nature et les objets n’ont pas été épargnés par les terroristes.Toutefois, nous apprenons auprès de ces jeunes promeneurs de la commune d’Ath Bouaddou que, depuis un certain temps, ils se permettent des marches et des promenades jusqu’au lac Aguelmim et même des campings en été. Je laisse là nos amis du versant nord de la montagne et rejoignis mes compagnons. Vers midi trente minutes, nous nous asseyons par terre pour un déjeuner champêtre. Méziane Tergou, champion d’Algérie 2009 d’escalade sur mur artificiel et animateur de l’association distribue les repas aux randonneurs. Après le déjeuner, les marcheurs se déplacent vers le nord du lac et Mouloud reprend sa guitare pour que la fête soit relancée de plus belle. On chante, on danse et on s’amuse sans retenue. En alternance avec la musique, quatre jeunes animateurs de l’association Mimouna, Saâdia, Ahcene, Yacine et Samir présentent une pièce de théâtre avec comme thème un Algérien qui cherche à se marier avec une émigrée rentrée au pays durant la période des vacances.

LE RETOUR
Vers quatorze heures quarante minutes, c’est la redescente vers la plaine de Haïzer. Cette opération s’avère plus difficile que la montée. La fatigue, la lourdeur, la pesanteur et l’attraction nous tirent vers le bas, nous allons plus vite mais nous devrions faire attention aux chutes très fréquentes en descente. Les animateurs du CSA Mimouna aident les plus jeunes et les femmes à descendre avec le moins de peur et de risques possibles. Là bas, dans la plaine, le barrage de Tilesdit serpente le long de la rivière du Dhous. À 16 heures trente minutes, les premiers randonneurs atteignent Tizi Guefran, le lieu de départ de ce matin. Le cortège au grand complet arrive au même endroit vers 17 heures. Là, les bus et les fourgons nous attendaient pour nous déposer à Haïzer. La journée, quoique très fatigante, voire épuisante pour certains, a été, de l’avis de tout le monde, enrichissante, utile et agréable. Le club sportif amateur Mimouna donne rendez-vous aux marcheurs pour d’autres randonnées à l’avenir. (Le Courrier d’Algérie-15.04.2010.)

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  13. 10 09 2020
    Jacques Fenty (03:08:15) :

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  14. 8 09 2020
    Marva Leaper (04:31:52) :

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  15. 17 08 2020
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